Day 43 - June 30

Eureka, KS to Chanute, KS

68 / 2277

After a banana and a pack of mini donuts I hit the road for Toronto. I feel much better compared to yesterday! There is a banner just outside of Toronto announcing Fourth of July fun. There will be mud volleyball and a baby contest among other festivities. At Toronto Cafe I enjoy a great omelet and meet a woman who grew up around here but who now lives in TX. We discuss the different philosophies concerning burritos. She says she's sick of everybody in Texas drowning their plates with gravy.

 The ride to Chanute is just plain pretty.

 The afternoon sun is really starting to cook. Fortunately, I find a great spot to get out of the heat...

The last 15 miles to Chanute are scorching hot! At one point I scramble for shade off the road and hang my shirt and hat to dry. People driving past stare like they've never seen a man wearing tight shorts and nothing else.

I arrive in Chanute totally cranky. After settling into the Knight's Inn, I walk to Walmart and step on a scale. Looks like I've lost ten pounds. I grab a Subway sandwich and a beer to keep the weight on. I make a solemn oath to leave before sunrise tomorrow to get a jump on the heat.

I watch The Blob and then The H-Man and call it a night.

Day 42 - June 29

El Dorado,KS to Eureka,KS

32 / 2209

I roll out and stop for coffee and a bagel at Scooter's Cafe. Something is not right. My body and mind seem to be on the brink of collapse before the ride has even begun. I consider sticking near town at a campground or something but I'm determined to clear at least a few miles. While sipping coffee I meet Jim and Louellen. They travel a lot and we talk about our experiences in Spain. Jim and Louellen have five children around my age and 16 grandchildren. Before leaving, Jim slips me twenty bucks and encourages me to dine at the Copper Kettle in Eureka. Thanks Jim!

Out on the road again I am feeling horrible. The terrain is easy, mostly flat and even some downhill, but it's a struggle. I stop often and wonder what the heck is going on. Staring straight down at my front wheel is the best way to focus my mind on something other than my body. I take a break and consider camping near this creek...

 About twenty miles out I meet westbound riders Olive and Ben. They are joined by a solo rider from Brooklyn. They plan on riding all together til Pueblo, CO. Olive warns me of the dogs in KY and MO and hands me her remaining dog pepper spray. All through the conversation I feel like I might tip over but I eventually feel invigorated by the chat and push on with a "can do" attitude. I reach Eureka and make no attempt at going further. Eureka has a picture perfect main street.

 I follow Jim's advice and take the twenty dollar bill to the Copper Kettle and totally pig out on roast beef, mashed potatoes and green beans. My place mat has interesting facts about all fifty states.

June 28

Hutchinson to El Dorado

77 / 2177

Half-slept through the night in the church. Loading up the bike takes a long time and I eventually have a bite to eat at Daylight Donuts.

 The morning is pleasant and quiet as I meander towards Hwy 50. When I reach Burton I pull over in search of breakfast. No eggs and toast but I do meet Mrs. Janson. She and I are both on bikes and we stop to chat when our paths cross. She tells me a little about the town and the family of foxes that have been residing in a vacant building nearby. Just then, one of the foxes darts across the street. Mrs. Janson invites me to meet her husband, Jim, and I follow her to their home. Jim is gardening and he isn't surprised to see a visitor riding up his driveway. We sit and enjoy sweet tea and Jim tells of his younger days in this town- he's always lived here. Eventually, we get around to admiring Jim's 1950's 2-door Ford Fairlane. He bought it brand new in Hutchinson when he was a lad. I could have enjoyed tea and conversation with the Janson's all day but I had to say "thanks" and push on.


The town of Burton has a snow cone shack! What a world it would be if every town had a snow cone shack...

Out on hwy 50 again, I discover Overton's produce market. I buy a tomato, banana chips, grapefruit candy and a Coke. On their porch overlooking the highway I enjoy the tomato with some salt and pepper. Wow! This is a fantastic tomato!

Near this intersection a dude in a truck yard sees me fussing with my map and provides me with perfect directions to the nearest laundromat.

The laundromat has totally weird characters floating around and I hit the road ASAP. I cruise through Newton without stopping and set my sights on Potwin via route 196. This road is hilly as can be but the weather is terrific and I just keeping rolling up, down, up, down through the green grass and corn fields.

Just outside of Potwin I see a fella pushing a buggy along the highway. I think it odd that a parent would push their kid along the highway. I pull aside to talk and ask about El Dorado. His name is Nate and the buggy is for carrying camping gear. Nate has been on the road since February walking across the country. Whoa. He started in Delaware and is heading for San Francisco. I offer Nate food and water but he's got it covered. Nate says he feels wonderfully free on his trip.

Once in El Dorado I get directions to downtown from a guy driving a sandrail. In town I have a really good cup of coffee. The girl running the counter at the coffee shop says she hated her name until a customer told her that it meant something holy in an ancient language. Now she likes her name just fine.
I settle into a dirt bag motel and then I cruise to Taco Bell and then to the liquor store. I bump into two dudes who convey their most recent jail stories. One of the guys, upon release from his latest jail time, immediately drank two shots of whiskey, a six-pack of tall-boys and a 40 oz. and woke up on his front lawn unsure of how he arrived there. The shop owner seems offended that I locked up my bike in his safe and friendly town.