July 4

Fair Grove, MO to Houston, MO

82 / 2527

The rain has cleared up for the Forth of July. In Marshfield, I grab breakfast at a cafe where the Casey Anthony trial blasts on TV. On my way out of town I spot a Delorean and then a parade....

 After watching the parade for a bit I ride on. Moments later, I get a call from Claudia. She wants to know if I can make it to Houston today. If I do, she'll drive up from Memphis with Bekky. Cool! It'll be 82 miles, my third longest ride of the whole trip.

Today's ride was really pretty and I took lots of pictures...

 I did end up crossing paths with horse and buggy travelers a few times in Missouri

One of several "Boo Radley" style houses I stopped to admire on this trip...

 At this spot I hit the 2500 mile mark

 This area is really remote! I see a car every now and then but otherwise it's just me and the bugs. Funny thing out here in Missouri : seems like nearly every car or truck is red. The houses out here are far and few between and they vary in their quality and health code compliance. Some places look really grand and others are held together with twine and plastic tarps.

California Roll : Yum!
Missouri Roll : Moo!

 Around here is the town of Ben Davis. The gas stop is closed but they've got a water spout so I refill my bottles. A half mile away I take a swig and spit it out quick. The water tastes like sulfur and metal- yuck!

The road to success is just outside of Houston, MO...

I reach Houston as the sun sets behind thunder clouds. As I turn into town I spot Claudia walking toward the highway. Yeah! It's super surreal being together after being apart for so long! Claudia, Bekky and I have a really nice time at dinner and later watch fireworks blast among the flash and boom of a lightning storm. Being in a car is totally weird! We roll along at 40 mph and I'm gripping the arm rest like an old nervous fart - everything is moving so fast!

July 3

Golden City, MO to Fair Grove, MO

69.5 / 2445

Outside of Golden City I meet another bicycle tourist, Michael, from London. He carries enormous front panniers that scrape the ground when he turns. We talk a while and when I head off the roller coaster hills of Missouri begin....

 These hills are just as one rider described them : steep as hell, but never for too long.

I forget the name of this town but I stopped for some shade and a self portrait. The veranda I sit on was built in the twenties to honor WWI veterans. It seems to be the place where kids go to smoke and break bottles.

 It's 96 degrees when I reach Ash Grove and I follow the signs to Mama Loca Restaurant. The meal is regrettable but the people are nice.

Back at it I meet Travis from England at a convenience store. He's riding the same route as me. He met Michael a while back and they rode together for a few days. Travis prefers riding 60 miles max in a day. This brings up an interesting point. Riding 50 miles or less in a day offers more time to take it all in and snap pictures and what not. Pushing for more than that makes me itchy to keep moving in order to reach my goal before dark.

  This stretch was insane!

 Flags are a-flyin' in Walnut Grove. I think it was in this town that I discovered my most potent snack : Snickers ice cream bar with an unsweetened ice tea. Time and again this combo gave me a boost like no cup of coffee or Clif Bar could! I rest outside of the gas stop where weird characters loiter and laugh like madmen. A girl chuckles and stumbles out of the gas stop and I'm not sure if she's got crazy make-up or two black eyes.

Before reaching Fair Grove I encounter some longhorns stayin' cool...

I reach Fair Grove safe and sound and set up camp just before it starts raining cats 'n' dogs.

 

July 2

Pittsburgh, KS to Golden City, MO

38.75 / 2375

Today marks my last moments in Kansas! I expected Kansas to be the easiest part of this trip but it has been the hardest yet!

I reach a fireworks stand at state line and ask the proprietor to take a photo of me with the Missouri sign. She's busy but her helper, Tyler, hands me a bottle of water and takes the photo for me.

 I soon meet westbound rider Nicolas of France. He rides a two-wheel recumbent and he's on his way for the Western Express.

I take a break under this lovely tree...

 In Golden City I pull into a Bar and Grill for a cold beer. The owner grew up in San Pablo! We go on about the East Bay. He wants to move back but his girlfriend won't leave Missouri. I head across the street is Cooky's Cafe. They seem to be a big attraction for travelers of all sorts. I sign the cyclists ledger and enjoy a fantastic meal.

I set up camp at the city park. After the tent is up I snoop around and discover a shower near the restroom. Cool. It's really gross and I nearly slip several times but it's nice to rinse off after a hot day.

Families set off fireworks as night falls. I see what I think are embers from the fireworks but I discover they're actually fireflies. Wow! The little bugs are mesmerizing and I just sit and watch til dusk goes dark. The fireworks go on for hours as I try to sleep, but I don't really mind.