June 21

Pueblo to Fowler

40 / 1713

Sleep in and head to post office. The mirror I special-ordered has arrived! Feels great to throw away the duct-taped monstrosity. I didn't take many pictures today but here's one of the Incredible Bulk and a new friend at a Pueblo intersection...

After picking up a few items at the Great Divide Bike Shop I leave Pueblo via 4th Street where cyclists are very unwelcome. I rejoin Hwy 50 which is a busy four-laner here and the scenery is flat and dry. Lots of junk yards and such.

Once I reach route 96 the ride gets quiet and I rarely see a car for the rest of the day. The terrain is incredibly flat and there is an illusion of getting nowhere fast. In the town of Boone I pull into a convenience shop where the proprietor looks just like a cowboy except for the bright green socks and no shoes. I enjoy a microwave burrito and view news clippings which illustrate a train wreck that wiped out the shop years ago. What are the chances of a train derailing and crashing into the only structure for miles? Outside of Boone I encounter some really cool cacti...

After crossing the Arkansas River I call it a day in the town of Fowler.

I grab a terrific bite to eat at Fat Willy's and chat with a waitress who used to live in San Diego but moved out here for the cheap housing scene. Down the street is a sort of run-down RV park where I set up camp for twelve bucks. This place is also host to a massive mosquito population! The bugs ease off as evening approaches and I take a walk around the neighborhood before calling it a night.

Here's a view of the playground/campground/RV park...

June 20

Cotopaxi to Pueblo

84/1673

I enjoy a little good fortune and discover the route I'm following out of Cotopaxi reopened yesterday. I confirm this news with a truckload of firefighters before heading up the hill. They say the fire was nasty but it's safe now.

It's started raining pretty hard a few hours before I took this photo and I sported the rain gear for the first time on the trip.

There's a fresh dusting of snow in the Rockies from the storm that hit last night.

Right around here I meet Mario from Miami. He's riding east and he's shocked that it has taken me a month to get this far. He's used to a warmer climate and complains that everywhere outside of Florida is "freezing".

The weather today is really whacky and I change in and out of cold weather gear at least four times. Leaving Westcliffe I cruise through wide open plains and a few brutal hills.

After a few big climbs I am treated to a speedy decent through a green river canyon on the way to Wetmore. Past Wetmore the road flattens a bit and I catch a nasty headwind for the remaining 20 miles to Pueblo. I stop often to rest and trip out on the sky and clouds.

The shoulder here is wide and inviting but full of sharp objects. I remember a westbound duo who reported three flats each on their ride leaving Pueblo. I ride in the lane as much as possible to preserve my no-flats streak.

The wind is just killin me and Pueblo seems to be some kind of hidden city. Although I'm only two miles away there is no clue that would suggest a city of 100k + is nearby. I finally reach Pueblo and my route takes me past the zoo and I eventually realize the ACA map is taking me all the freaking way around Pueblo for the sake of following a designated bike lane. I abandon that plan and just take 4th street across the bridge to downtown.

Downtown Pueblo scene has architecture that reminds me of SOMA San Francisco with with the "where-is-everybody?" factor of downtown San Jose. I enjoy dinner at an Irish pub and grab a cheap/gross motel and call it a night.

June 19

Sergeants to Cotopaxi

59 daily
1589 total

I take it slow and easy today - big elevation gains. The climb is challenging but not too crazy. A river roars in the canyon below as the road winds up to Monarch Pass.

The 11,300 foot summit is a wide open space that's mostly paved. I meet several interesting individuals outside the snack bar. I meet two fellow Eastbounders following the same route as I am. They're both school teachers looking for work as they tour the country. A native of Kentucky is touring on his Harley and gives me pointers on his home state. He remembers the 1976 "Bikecentenial", the event which mapped a cross-country cycling route and inspired many to ride all the way across. He remembers seeing hundreds of cyclists passing through his town that summer.

The other side of tne summit offers a fast and fun ride all the way to Poncha Springs where I am surprised to find really good Thai food!

After lunch I ride a few more easy miles through Salida and enter a rocky river canyon. The road narrows and the traffic situation gets a bit freaky. This was a very pretty ride! I meet a Westbounder from NY in Howard. He's filthy but having a blast.

At the gas stop in Cotopaxi I meet a man who competed in an Arctic footrace sponsored by an English company. He applied through an ad he found on an airplane. His team finished last due to some wimpy crew members. I set camp at a KOA for the evening. It's really expensive compared to other RV/camp places but features camping right beside the Fremont River where I spend the dusky hours marvelling at the water and light.

June 18 / Day 31

Gunnison to Sargeants

32 daily
1530 total

I take it easy today and stay at the foot of Monarch Pass. I'm leary of the upcoming climb and save the trip up and over for the next day. I had Sonic Burger last night and still haven't fully recovered.

Today's ride is quick and quiet.

>I reach the Sargeants RV park and campground and visit the cafe for lunch. I meet a guy from DC who is riding a mountain bike race from Mexico to Canada. He's a bit condescending and we stop chatting pretty quick. I relax and watch Cheech and Chong's "Next Movie" on my IPad- still hilarious! Here's a view of one of the many streams that wind through the valley leading up to Monarch Pass...

June 16 / Day 29

Montrose to Gunnison

65.5 daily
1498 total

While enjoying blueberry pancakes at the Red Barn Restaurant I meet a fella from Susanville, CA and he's in town to referre a mountain bike race. The road gently rises up to the first big climb of the day- Cerro Summit.

This climb is no joke! Four miles straight up and I'm fighting for road with the truckers.

There's a fun ride down to Cimmarron where I meet three dudes riding from Portland, OR. Once they reach Portland, ME they'll turn around and ride home.
Blue Mesa summit is even more difficult with lots of trucks! Over the top I've got a long downhill ride to the reservoir.

It's really beautiful riding beside the reservoir. It's also really darn hot! I walk towards this sign to catch a sliver of shade when a cloud passes in front of the sun and offers me a break from the heat - hooray for clouds!

The sun stays tucked away for the rest of the ride and the remaining miles to Gunnison are a cinch.

>I was jammin' with my head down and almost missed this incredible scene. This spot reminded me of scenery from the Lord of the Rings movies.

15 June / Day 28

Telluride to Montrose

73 daily
1432 total

I leave Telluride sorta early and stick to the road rather than the rutty bike trail. Some drivers are very displeased with this. Sorry folks! Once I finish the three miles back to the junction the road heads downhill for a fast and cool 12 miles. Here's a view along the following climb up Dallas Divide.

I'm resting in the shade and listening to my headphones when another cyclist pulls up and startles the heck out of me. He's headed for the bluegrass festival and he rode through snow to get here.

Once over Dallas Divide it's a fantastic fling down to Ridgeway. They've got a tremendous view of the Rockies here.

The ride between Ridgeway and Colona is freaky! Major rush hour traffic and no shoulder make for a really tough time. Thank goodness my duct-taped mirror is holding up! I take the ditch a few times when big rigs refuse to budge. I pull into this Sinclair station to get a cold drink and settle my nerves.

Colona to Montrose offers a much safer ride- and a rippin' tailwind! I fly past construction traffic that trails for miles and clear the last 20 miles in high gear. On the outskirts of town I cruise through an RV park with all kinds of crazy stuff going on. These old trucks and trailers haven't moved in a long time. One truck has a motorcycle contorted through it's rear window. Angry dogs are chained to trailers and heavy pieces of junk. I eventually find a decent campsite at an RV park/mini golf course. I was intrigued by this alley- looks like a great place for a car chase!